Denim Terms

 

20 Denim terms you should know

Chain Stitch: Can be performed by hand or by a union special machine. The stitch allows a cool roping pattern in fades along the bottom of the hem of your jeans.

Lock Stitch: Easier to do and is more efficient than the lock stitch. Most common stitch you will see, especially with thicker fabrics.

Overlock Stitch: Also known as surging. They look like a bunch of figure eights. Very efficient way to marry two pieces of fabric together. It is not the most uniformed, best looking, or strongest.

Flat Felled Seam: Nice finished edge. It is a much better way to make something, it is so much stronger union of those two materials. Also used to hide seam allowance

                                                         

Burr and Rivet: One piece called the rivet which goes through the fabric and the burr is the washer that goes on top there, joining that thing together. You will find these in the corner of pockets, any place where you are going to see a lot of tugging.

Top Block: Piece of fabric that goes from your legs all the way up to your waist in the front of your jeans. This dictates the overall look of the jeans.

Yolk: The portion that connects the legs up to the waist band on the back. There are a bunch of different styles it can come in  

                                                        

Insam: This is the distance between the crotch and the hem where your legs come out.

Hem: the bottom of your jeans where your legs come out is called the hem.

Rise: How far up your jeans come

Twill: diagonal weaving process where the weft yarn is woven over and under several warp yarns.

Selvedge: Fabric made on old-style shuttle looms which result in a narrow fabric bolt with a finished edge

Sanforized: a process which reduces the amount of shrinkage that happens after the first wash

Unsanforized: Known as shrink to fit jeans. People will wash them once, put them on while they are still wet, let them dry on their body. This makes them reduce and compress to your body, making them a custom garment.

Enzyme Wash: Friendly to the environment. it breaks down the cellulose found in the indigo dye. It makes it a lot softer                          

                                                    

Shuttle looms: the way they used to wave fabric. It was replaced by the projectile shuttle looms

Projectile Looms: They can make a much wider bolt of fabric thus yielding more jeans per foot. It is a better process for profit.

Crocking: the transfer of indigo dye from whatever your wearing to another source.

Leg Twist: When you have a pair of jeans for quite a while, the leg will literally twist. It is a natural kind of thing that happens when twill fabric is hung that way since its woven on a diagonal pattern it naturally wants to twist.

Raw denim: Denim in its most pure form. It was dyed, put together and
sewn into the final garment that you received  


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